Upper
crust |
Our team of
tasters tracks down the best pizzas 'round
BEST OF NEW
YORK |
| By IRENE SAX |
We sent reporters to all five boroughs with this
assignment: Order two pies - one plain, one with toppings. Rate the
plain, or margherita, on a scale from one star (edible) to four
stars (incredible). And while you're at it, take note of the
quality of the toppings on the other pizzas.
When all the reports were in, we sent a second
team to revisit the two places that had rated four stars. What they
discovered surprised them. It turns out that New York doesn't have
one best pizza. It has two. And though they're both in Brooklyn,
they couldn't be less alike.
CHARTING THE PIES
Judging wasn't easy, but it was fun.
Once we compiled a list culled from days of
research, which got longer as places opened and recommendations
poured in, we knew we couldn't just go out and eat pizza. We had to
be scientific. So all eight reporters and editors first met at a
Greenwich Village place, ordered a couple of margheritas and chewed
over what we were eating.
Think of this the next time you order a
slice:
How is the crust? Pale or charred? Thick or thin?
Rigid or flexible? Does the point flop over when you pick it up?
Can you taste the wheat?
How is the sauce? Are the tomatoes fresh or
canned and, if canned, are they from San Marzano? Seasoned with how
much salt? How much oregano? Are fresh basil leaves laid on
top?
What about cheese? Is it processed or fresh,
sliced or grated? Is it even mozzarella? And does it sit in
discrete little islands or has it melted all over the pie?
Finally, and trickiest: How is the balance? This
turned out to be more important than we expected. Once we were in
the field, we discovered that a pie with a perfect crust could be
ruined by a dull sauce or a too-heavy blanket of cheese. A pie with
world-class toppings could have a leaden, cracker-like
crust.
Why no slices? Because slices are a different
food. They are twice-cooked, once in their first baking, then when
they are reheated. The second blast of heat makes both the crust
and the cheese get harder.
Queens
Bella Via
47-46 Vernon Blvd., Long Island City, (718) 361-7510
Only a too-tame sauce kept this out-of-the-way Italian spot from
the top tier of pizza ranks. The crust is perfect — crisp yet
pliable, with nice char, and the cheese is fresh and smooth. The
arugula-prosciutto pizza comes with tons of uncooked arugula strewn
on top with oil.
